It is mid-morning on a cold December Saturday, and as our small group of kayakers glides across the black water of Sparkleberry Swamp, it’s the stillness that is most striking.
We are deep into the heart of the magnificent 16,000-acre wetland on the northern end of Lake Marion, surrounded by stands of tupelo and cypress. Every now and then we hear a distant outboard motor, but for the most part, the journey is blissfully quiet. And it is that lack of man-made noise, the solitude of the area, which makes the swamp one of South Carolina’s premier paddling destinations.
“The East Coast is so populated with humans that to find a place that you can have just the sounds of nature is golden—totally golden,” says Mary Crockett, a biologist and paddling enthusiast who long ago lost count of the hours she’s spent in the swamp.
Sparkleberry is easy on the eyes, too. It’s a prolific wildlife habitat, and in the soft morning light we spot ospreys and double-crested cormorants perched on cypress branches. We scan the water’s edge for signs of deer and wild pigs. Occasionally, our small flotilla crosses paths with a line of colorful wood ducks pumping away across the mirrored surface of the water.
There are dangers behind the beauty, including cottonmouths and some really big alligators, but the greatest risk is simply getting lost in Sparkleberry’s maze of narrow, unmarked channels. With a knowledgeable guide, however, the swamp is a joy to explore, says John Cely, an avid paddler and the land protection director of the Congaree Land Trust.
“The place speaks for itself,” he says. “It’s just one of the most beautiful flat-water paddling destinations in the Southeast.”
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Get There
Sparkleberry Swamp is owned by Santee Cooper, the state-run utility, and open to a variety of uses including fishing and duck hunting. Three boat ramps provide access: Pack’s Landing, located just west of Rimini, and Sparkleberry Landing, near Pinewood, are on the east side of the swamp; Low Falls Landing is on the west side.
For guided tours, contact Hunter Morgan at Naturally Outdoors in Florence, (843) 665-1551. The fee is $60 per person and includes a kayak and paddling gear; $50 if you bring your own boat. Trips usually last four or five hours. A list of other guides can be found at the South Carolina Paddle Sports Industry Association’s website, paddlesouthcarolina.org.