Illustration by David Clark
Whether you’re new to gardening courtesy of COVID-19 self isolation or an experienced hand at tilling the soil, there’s always more to learn. We asked Clemson University Extension Agent Chase Smoak to answer some of the most common questions he and his colleagues respond to on a daily basis.
Q: I just purchased chickens. Can I apply fresh manure straight to my garden?
A: Manure, or black gold, as I like to call it, has been used as an organic fertilizer for generations. It contains the big three nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Chicken manure is considered “hot” due to its high amounts of quick-release nitrogen. Too much nitrogen in this form will burn plants, so it’s best to compost chicken manure for a year before use. This can be accomplished by mixing with straw or hay and piling it somewhere out of the way. For additional tips on natural fertilizers, see “The dirt on manure.”
Q: I was told Epsom salt will help tomatoes produce more fruit, is this true?
A: This is an “old wives’ tale” that has remained popular for a very long time—too long. Epsom salt contains a chemical compound known as magnesium sulfate. While plants do require magnesium for growth, it’s only needed in small amounts. Applying magnesium sulfate anytime your plants look sad is not a realistic approach. In fact, you shouldn’t use it at all unless a soil test calls for magnesium. Situations requiring Epsom salt are few and far between, so don’t drink the Kool-Aid on this myth. For more on soil testing, see “Digging up answers with soil samples.”
One more thing: Placing eggshells and banana peels by tomato plants won’t prevent blossom end rot. This myth has been trending on social media as of late and is 100% false. A quick guide to preventing blossom end rot can be found in my recent article, “Tasty Homegrown Tomatoes.”
Q: How often should I water my garden?
A: As a general rule of thumb, garden plants will need around 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. This includes rainfall, so invest in a rain gauge. Place the gauge out in the open where it won’t catch runoff from the roof or tree limbs.
The key to watering any plant is to do it deeply and infrequently. This encourages strong root growth and will help plants battle hot weather in days ahead. If you haven’t done so already, put down a 3-inch-deep layer of mulch in your garden, keeping it a hand palm-width away from each plant’s base. Not only will mulch help deter weed growth, but it will also help retain moisture in the soil.
Q: What type of media/soil should I use in a raised bed?
A: A mixture of topsoil and compost is the best solution. The amount of compost added should equal around 10% to 15% of the total raised bed volume (length x width x height). Soil with too much compost will lead to disease, water and nutrient problems. Nobody wants that!
Q: I don’t have much space for a garden, what are my options?
A: One easy and pretty cool solution is straw bale gardening. As the name suggests, you simply grow fruits and vegetables out of a straw bale. Look for wheat straw as it tends to work best. Bales need to be conditioned, so a little work is required upfront. For a step by step guide to the ancient practice, visit see the Straw Bale Gardening brochure (HGIC 1264 ) at Clemson’s Home and Garden Information Center.
Another approach is container gardening. A wide variety of container types can be used as long as they have adequate depth for roots, drainage holes and have never contained toxic chemicals. A packaged, light-weight potting soil from your local supply store is a suitable growing medium. Avoid filling the bottom of a container with rocks, it serves no purpose and takes up valuable space for growing roots. For more tips, see Container Vegetable Gardening (HGIC 1251) at Clemson’s Home and Garden Information Center.
Q: Help! I have fire ants in my garden. What should I do?
A: The red imported fire ant has been an unwelcome guest in U.S. gardens since around the 1930s. Luckily, a few chemical baits do offer control and are perfectly safe for use in home vegetable gardens. Products containing the active ingredient spinosad work by affecting the ant nervous system. In short, spinosad is a natural derivative of a soil microorganism (Saccharopolyspora spinose), and many of the products are approved for organic production.
For best results, only use fresh baits that have been stored in a cool, dry area. Wait until temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees and throw a few potato chips on the ground. If ants are foraging, they should show up within 15 minutes. Now that you know ants are foraging, a bait containing spinosad can be evenly sprinkled around, not on top of each mound. For maximum effectiveness, make sure no rain is in the forecast for the next 24 hours and avoid smoking before or during use. For more information, see Controlling Fire Ants in The Vegetable Garden (HGIC 1263).
Chase Smoak is an urban horticulture agent for Clemson Extension in Sumter, Clarendon and Lee Counties. Contact him at jsmoakj@clemson.edu.