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Chef Werner Horvath
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Hühner-Schnitzel in Parmesan Kruste
Raised in the hospitality industry at his family’s hotel near Graz, Austria, Werner Horvath seemed destined to run his own kitchen—he just never imagined that it would be located in South Carolina.
He and his wife, Martina, both attended culinary school and built their resumes by working at resorts such as The Steigenberger Hotel and the Trofana Royal near the Tyrolean Alps. It was at the Trofana where the couple met guests Michael and Petra Jerabek, fellow Austrians who had introduced The Grand Strand to Viennese cooking when they founded Café Old Vienna in the heart of Myrtle Beach. The Jerabeks were looking to trim their work hours, and before their vacation was over they had invited the Horvaths to lease and manage the restaurant.
Werner replaced Petra in the kitchen, and Martina took over Michael’s hosting and managerial duties. The transition was seamless, and the restaurant’s reputation grew. The chef has shown grateful diners he is adept at making flavorful Hungarian goulash (in a traditional candlewarmed kettle, no less), delicately crispy wiener schnitzel and juicy bratwurst. On Dec. 1, 2010, the Horvaths purchased Café Old Vienna.
Located off Kings Highway, the restaurant is convenient for visitors and locals alike, and invites diners with a comfortable decor of blonde woods burnt with Germanic heart and leaf designs, Austrian travel posters and pretty blue accents in fabric and wallpaper. Classical piano music is usually playing, and lovely Martina greets customers dressed in traditional Austrian dresses and neckerchiefs. Walk-ins can usually snag tables at lunch, but reservations for dinner are a good idea at this tiny, 30-seat eatery.
The Horvaths keep things interesting with seasonal specials and entertainment, and there is always candlelight and live music on Saturday nights. In order to satisfy their growing customer base, they have added dishes from beyond Austrian borders such as panini, grilled fish and crusty French bread piled with thinly sliced ham and tomatoes and topped with melted Swiss and brie cheeses and herbs de Provence. But it’s traditional Viennese fare, like knackwurst and pork cordon bleu, that keep regulars coming back for more at Café Old Vienna. Some people swear by the simple juicy chopped steak; others crave almond- or Parmesan-crusted schnitzels. Austrian side dishes complete the culinary package, such as spaetzle (short rustic noodles) served with gravy, German potato salad, fresh tomato and cucumber salad, delectably crispy home fries and mellow- yet flavorful sauerkraut. To accompany their meal, guests can choose from a variety of German beers and wines as well as strong European coffees, and the dessert case always contains fine Austrian and German pastries, including multi-layer tortes.
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Hühner-Schnitzel in Parmesan Kruste
Serves 1
1 chicken breast, lightly pounded
Salt
Flour
Eggwash
Mixture of equal parts breadcrumbs and finely grated Parmesan cheese
Light cooking oil
Lightly salt the pounded chicken breast. Dip the breast in flour, then in eggwash, then in the Parmesan/breadcrumb mixture. Place a little oil on a grill or in a sauté pan and cook, covered, on both sides until golden brown. Serve with cranberry sauce, German potato salad and fresh steamed vegetables.