Following the Swamp Fox

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We are melting. At least, it feels that way as I stand with an outdoorsy-looking group on the banks of Lynches River. It’s a sweltering Saturday in Florence County, and the new upgrades at Odell Venters Landing in Johnsonville (repaved parking lot, dual concrete ramps and a floating courtesy dock) have just been dedicated by dignitaries in three-piece suits. Remarkably, they manage to look a bit cooler than those of us sporting shorts, sandals, sun visors and somewhat bulky life vests. 

But our discomfort is about to be tempered. Today, we embark on a journey through the waterways once navigated by Revolutionary War hero and local legend, Francis “Swamp Fox” Marion. Not only does this paddle trip lure us with the promise of bracing waters, gentle breezes, natural beauty and intermittent gifts of shade, but it guarantees a fascinating glimpse into the storied past of the Pee Dee and one of the craftiest militia leaders in U.S. history. 

It was at this landing—then called Witherspoon’s Ferry—that the brigadier general took command of his scrappy Patriot army, leading them through the waterways and wetland forests where they outsmarted the considerably larger British forces. As a spectacular reminder, Marion and his trusty horse, Ball, are memorialized here by a 7-foot bronze sculpture (atop a 12-foot-tall base) created by world-renowned artist, Alex Palkovich. You might well be moved to give it a hearty salute before you push off. 

This trip will begin on the Lynches River, then turn off into Mill Creek and end near Snow’s Island, Marion’s secretive headquarters. It’s a small segment of the 66 miles of blackwater tributaries known as the Revolutionary Rivers National Recreation Trail, a somewhat convoluted path that requires maps and experienced guides. Holly Beaumier of the Florence Convention and Visitors Bureau, a veteran of this trip, says we might spot snakes, alligators, beavers, otters and other creatures along the way. Depending on water levels and currents, it should take about three hours to complete our 7-mile adventure. 

Kayaks are loaded into the water and we are assisted into our vessels by Hughes Page of RiverRat’s Kayaks, and Terry Cook, a ranger with the South Carolina Forestry Commission and a lifelong explorer of this swampy terrain. If you were doing a stint on a survivor reality show, these are the people you’d want to be stranded with. 

“The water is low and there are places along the way where we may need to pull the kayaks,” Page says. “Nothing to worry about, though. We’ll be right here to help you.”

The more experienced paddlers work their oars with precision, while the newbies get a feel for dipping and sweeping their blades to best advantage. With a dozen or so kayaking trips under my belt, I don’t fit either description but land somewhere in the middle. It’s been a year since my last excursion, but like a rubber band, I return to form in no time. Soon, all 11 of us are moving in a loose chevron, smoothly zippering between banks of bearded water tupelos and cypress trees.  

As we hoped, gliding on the water really takes the edge off the heat. The paddling is easy and the scenery is already eliciting sighs. On either side, walls of trees and foliage form forests thick enough to camouflage deer, wild boar, migratory songbirds and, quite feasibly, human beings aiming to hide from their enemies.

“Francis Marion and his men were known to ride marsh tackies through here,” says Cook, referring to the smallish, South Carolina breed of horse famous for an ability to maneuver lowland swamps. “The horses the British rode would get stuck in the muck.” 

It’s hard to imagine this peaceful area was once a hotbed of Revolutionary wargames. Here and there, our guides point out the massive hollows of tree trunks big enough to hide grown men and their munitions. 

History aside, there’s a definitive magical quality to these woods. Clusters of cypress knees look like hobbits drawn to the banks to watch our passing. On the river’s surface, a sparkly flux of water skippers creates madcap highways as they scoot about in the sunlight. When our laughter sends a flock of ibis rushing up for cover in the treetops, there are lots of “oohs” and “aahs.”  

“Look here—this is where some critters had breakfast this morning,” says Cook, as she passes a small tree. In the hollow of the trunk are a cluster of tiny clam shells, each an empty, gaping mouth.

But this heaven on earth is interrupted by potential difficulty ahead, and its name is “Hell’s Gate.”

With eyes flinty enough to ignite a log with a single glance, Cook shoots us a look and delivers gentle but firm guidance on how to traverse the hairpin curvature that will take us even deeper into the floodplain forest.

“We will need to go single file up ahead,” she says. “Just stay to the left, then turn as sharply as you can. If you get stuck, don’t worry. I’ll get you out.”

She doesn’t sound alarmed, so we maintain our relaxed rhythm. Thankfully, the water is low today (and, again—it’s hot!), so no one’s too worried about the prospect of an unexpected dip or snag. As it happens, Hell’s Gate requires a few minor rescues, but soon we are all through the stricture and paddling merrily along. 

Cook also instructs us on how to cross over fallen logs that are just below the water’s surface. “Pick up as much speed as you can as you approach, then hit it,” she says. “You should go right over it.” 

And sure enough, those instructions work like a charm, and more than one of us feels accomplished at successfully meeting this challenge. Within a few minutes, we reach a “portage,” an area so shallow we need to disembark and pull our kayaks a short way over the sandy river bottom. Periodically, nearly all of us find ourselves grounded in shallow places, but with a little rocking, push of an oar and, occasionally, a pull from a passing paddler, we are on our way again. 

At a halfway point, we head to the shore and disembark. Here, we find bathroom facilities and take a few minutes to gobble up some simple provisions and drink down icy bottles of water. Then, we’re afloat again, moving through a dense, gorgeous canopy of trees. We are now on Mill Creek, and it is rich with an ethereal loveliness. 

“Some of these cypress trees are around 750 years old,” says Cook, who volunteers her time and effort to keep these waterways clear of fallen trees and other obstacles. “That’s one reason why I try to take care of this place—future generations deserve to see these natural treasures, too.”

Indeed, it’s not hard to believe in the longevity of these giants, their trunks belled at the bottom like the skirt of a Southern lady’s hoop dress. Everyone is enchanted by this part of the route, which Cook tells us was once cleared and tended by African slaves from nearby plantations. 

That tidbit of information gives us solemn pause, and its significance serves to deepen the haunting beauty of this place. About an hour later, we round a bend and spot a wooden bridge spanning the creek. This marks the road to Snow’s Island, Cook says. It also marks the end of a journey through the remarkable, mysterious, hidden places of the Pee Dee.

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Get There

Odell Venters Landing is located at 714 Kingsburg Highway, Johnsonville. For more information on the Revolutionary Rivers of Florence County, see visitflo.com/revolutionary-rivers.

Guided tours: RiverRat’s Kayaks offers a variety of excursions. Dates, times and prices vary. For online booking and a complete listing of scheduled tours, visit riverratsc.com.

Cost: Guided tours start at $30 per adult; $20 for children. Price includes kayak, paddle and life vest.

Details: (843) 601-1795 or (843) 389-4656.

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River tips

  • Plan ahead. If you plan to bring the kids, a shorter trip is recommended. 
  • Pack the essentials. Don’t forget your sunscreen, bug spray and a hat or visor to protect yourself from the elements. It’s a good idea to pack a water bottle and a snack for quick sustenance while you’re paddling.
  • Make it a sleepover. RiverRat’s Kayaks offers longer excursions, too, some of which include overnight camping.
  • Get involved. If river camping intrigues you, you’ll be excited to know that a local civic group, Friends of Revolutionary Rivers (FOREVR), is raising funds to build camping platforms every 10 miles along this fascinating trail. Learn more about this project at easterncarolinacf.org/project/featured/friends-of-revolutionary-rivers-forevr.
  • Watch the video. Visit the “Featured Videos” section on the home page of SCLiving.coop to watch a video of the trail produced by Discover South Carolina and South Carolina Department of Parks, Recreation and Tourism.